Wednesday, June 15, 2016

Matters of Life and Death

Life in Atka goes along steadily, day in and day out, without too much to distinguish one day from another. The details of that life might be a bit different from the stereotypical picture of small-town America, but the pace is similar: slow and easy.

Of course, just as anywhere else, bad things happen. Life is filled with disasters large and small. Up until now, the biggest disaster that has happened during my time in Atka was my own eye injury, and subsequent med-evac. Sadly, that is no longer true.

The local seafood processing plant, know as "the cannery," though it doesn't produce anything in cans, is open now for the fishing season. There are line workers in the plant itself, as well as fishermen going out to find, well, fish! There are dynamics at play that I don't totally understand, but apparently the village is not willing to allow the cannery to build housing that is suitable for people to move here with their families and settle down. The cannery, therefore, is staffed with men, mostly young, who work for the season (May to November, roughly) and then leave with a pocketful of cash. Young men who have nothing to entertain themselves with in their off hours. That sounds like a recipe for trouble.

Yesterday, at about 4:30, when they finished their shift at the cannery, 10 men climbed into a van. I don't know where they were going or why they were in a hurry on that gravel road, but the speed estimates I've heard ranged from 60 to 80 miles per hour. As they passed the post office, the driver's leg buckled, causing him to push down on the gas pedal. The van accelerated, hit the edge at the side of the road, and flipped 4 times. Everyone who wasn't wearing a seat belt was ejected from the van through a window.

One man died almost instantly. Another died soon after. A third man also died, but I don't know exactly when it happened. Three people were evacuated to Anchorage. The remaining four, the ones who were wearing seat belts, will end up in an ER in Anchorage for shoulder and back injuries, but I don't know if they're being airlifted or if they're on their own to arrange transportation.

The med-evac plane for the men who were severely injured arrived about 4 hours after the crash. They sent one plane for all three. I don't have a clue how dead bodies are transported off the island.

I spend my time on the periphery of Atka, not quite part of the community and yet affected by it. I'm an observer, but not an impartial one. I care about the people here, especially my students. I'm shocked and saddened by this horrific accident. I have no doubt that the community is shaken to its core. Death may be a constant companion in Atka, seen mostly among the hunters and fishermen, but human death is thankfully rare. When young, healthy people die so tragically and unnecessarily, you can't help but pause and wonder.

It took four hours for the plane to get here, and then another four hours to get to Anchorage. Would that 3rd death have happened if help had been closer? I don't know. We're so used to help arriving in minutes. It's hard to fathom waiting 8 hours to get to a hospital. The island does have an ambulance, and I'm sure it's well-equipped. There are various people trained in emergency first aid, as well as the community health aide who mans the clinic, but even an M.D. wouldn't have been of much use without the arsenal of equipment that even a small hospital has.

As you know, I recognized that I needed to leave Atka based on the behavior of the superintendent. In the end, though, it was the lack of health care on the island that decided me. I don't imagine myself being in an accident, but at my age, and given my state of health, things like stroke and heart attack are possibilities I have to acknowledge. And with my sense of balance, or lack thereof, a fall resulting in a serious injury is a constant worry.

I pray for those who were killed and injured in this crash. I pray for their families. And I pray for the community that has to live with the memory of this event, and the fear it generates, for the rest of their lives. May all find healing and comfort!

Sunday, May 1, 2016

Happy Pascha!

Atka's primary religion is Eastern Orthodox, specifically Russian Orthodox. The Catholic/Protestant calendar and the Orthodox calendar are different and calculate when Easter comes differently. Most of the time, there is a week or two between the Orthodox and non-Orthodox Easters. Even though I was a practicing Catholic for several years, I tend to agree with the Orthodox dates because Passover should always precede Easter. It always does on the Orthodox calendar, but not on the more mainstream calendar. This year, most Christians celebrated Easter on March 27; here in Atka, Easter is today, May 1. Happy Pascha!

The village worked hard over the last month or so to pay for a priest to celebrate Holy Week with them. They had pot lucks, cake walks, dart tournaments, bake sales, and raffles. About 10 days ago, Father Michael Oleksa flew into Atka, along with his wife. As a retired priest, he no longer has a parish, which gives him the freedom to go to these remote villages and celebrate with them.

One of his first stops upon arrival was the school. I recognized his name immediately when he introduced himself to me; he was the author of a book on Russian Orthodoxy in Alaska that I had used in teaching my U.S. History course in the fall. As we spoke, I found him to be a delightful man who emanated warmth and kindness. He had brought some egg decorating materials and wanted to know if he could come and decorate eggs with the students. I told him absolutely, and explained what I was doing with them in Art for egg decoration. He returned on Thursday to help the kids with the decals he had brought.

I tried to attend the midnight service on Saturday night, but ran into an odd problem. Father Michael had use of my car during the time he was here. There is a second SUV, but I've never driven it. I thought it might not be wise to drive it for the first time with one eye patched. I could certainly have gotten a ride to church, but the service is 3-4 hours long; I knew I would be leaving early. I couldn't figure out how to get a ride home. Oh well. No Easter service for me!

However, I was determined to be part of the community celebration, so I went to the pot luck luncheon today. I made rice pilaf, since I was pretty sure no one would have made it or even tasted it before. I finally got to taste sea lion and reindeer. The former had an odd, oily taste. It sort of made me gag, even though it really wasn't *that* bad.  The reindeer was dry and chewy. It reminded me of badly cooked mutton. I think I would probably like reindeer if it were better prepared, but I don't think I'll give sea lion another go.

I finally got to meet the oldest man on the island. The kids and I saw his picture among the exhibits at the Aleutian WWII Visitor's Center in Dutch Harbor. He was a young teen when he was sent to the internment camp. My students have said that he has lots of stories, which I would love to hear. Unfortunately, a pot luck luncheon isn't the time for serious conversation.

I had a good time being with everyone, given that I usually feel awkward in social situations, and that I never remember everyone's name or even their faces. Still, I've gotten to know a few people well enough to exchange greetings and hugs. I felt welcome, and that made it a happy Easter.

Tuesday, April 26, 2016

Barge In

I've described previously how dependent we are on the 3x/week mail planes. They transport mail, freight, and especially people to and from our little island, weather permitting. Unfortunately, the weather frequently doesn't permit, which causes problems. Hearing the plane as it comes in for a landing creates excitement. Everyone who can hops on their bike (ATV) and rides to the airport. They all want to see who or what came in on the plane.

Imagine, then, the excitement when the first barge of the season arrives. Barges only come April to November; the water is too ice-clogged the rest of the year. Not that Atka has any harbor ice, but other spots along the route do. I don't know where exactly the barge originates.

Items that are too big or too heavy for the plane arrive by barge. Vehicles. Lumber. Furniture. Stock for the store. People know what items will be there, and they send crews to the dock to unload it. Once it's here, the barge only stays as long as it takes to unload it. The process takes 6-8 hours. Each different recipient sends a crew of helpers.

If I thought people got excited about the plane's arrival, that was nothing next to the reaction when we got word that the barge was coming. We had visitors on the island, and even they were excited. Everyone seemed to be expecting something. The Village Public Safety Officer (VPSO) was getting a new bike. The City was getting lumber for 2 new houses to be built this summer. The store had a ton of stuff coming. Everyone was checking the latest news on how far away the barge was.

The barge arrived around 1:00 on Thursday. Two of my students were hired to unload. Another student had to care for her little brother so her mother could put things away at the store; her grandparents own the store. I was left with 3 students. With no advance notice, I didn't have anything planned that half my class could miss. I sent one student to help in the primary classroom as a Reading Buddy. Another student helped the visitors bake cupcakes for a community meeting. The third worked on Math.

It was a generally exciting event, though I had no reason to get excited about it. Still, it's always nice to get a stress-free, lesson-free, half day like that! They can barge in any old time!

Sunday, April 3, 2016

No Sight for Sore Eyes

In my last entry, I promised to explain why it had taken so long to tell you about our trip to Dutch Harbor. The explanation begins last August. I learned that I have diabetes 4 days before I was leaving for Alaska. My doctor didn't want to educate me about my condition because she wasn't going to be able to monitor me. That means that I got no instructions about diet, exercise, or blood sugar testing prior to my leaving. There were no medication changes. All I got was "You've got diabetes. Good luck."

I did the best I could in modifying my diet, but the only tool I had was a scale. I have yet to find two scales that agree on my weight. Besides, the significant number would have been glucose levels, but I had no way to measure that. The clinic here in Atka, as I've mentioned, will only provide acute care for non-Alaska Natives. I wasn't eligible for either chronic care/management or wellness care.

Fast forward to March 5, the day after we returned from our Dutch Harbor trip. I woke up with double vision. I called a friend and asked her to come look at my eyes, since I couldn't see them. Nothing was bleeding or swollen, but my left eye was not aligned with the right one. I called the community health aide who runs the clinic and told her what was going on. Coincidentally, the eye doctor was expected to arrive on Monday. The health aide assured me that I would be the first patient the eye doctor would see as soon as she arrived and set up.

The weather was bad on Monday, and no plane arrived, hence no doctor. I tried all afternoon to call the clinic to see what I should do, but the phones were out, probably because of the weather that canceled the plane. I called first thing on Tuesday, and the health aide told me to come in so at least she could examine me. A friend gave me a ride to the clinic; I kept walking into walls, so I didn't think I should drive! she checked me out, told me she suspected an infection, and sent the data to the doctor who supervises her.

A couple of hours later, she called to tell me that a med-evac plane was coming for me, and I should be ready to leave in about 2 hours. The reason was that the doctor wanted to rule out a tumor, aneurysm, or an infection that was filling the space behind my eyeball. Since there had been no planes for 2 days, and storms in the area, the commercial flight was unlikely to be able to get me to Anchorage. Therefore, the med-evac plane was coming.

This was a Tuesday. I was already scheduled to fly to Anchorage on Friday for my spring break trip. The advice I got from everyone was to pack as if I wasn't coming back before going to Portland. That turned out to be good advice!

The trip was somewhat surreal. There was a pilot, a nurse, and a paramedic, just for me. I was having a lot of pain around my eye; in fact, I thought at first the condition was related to sinuses. Lying down was painful, but the only "seat" for me was a gurney. At one point the pilot said that he wanted to climb higher, since he'd be able to make better time. The medical team checked with me, talked it over, and told the pilot to go for it. When the pain got worse, I got really scared that my eyeball was just going to explode all over my face! Of course, nothing like that happened. Upon landing, I was transferred to an ambulance and taken to a hospital.

Once in the hospital, it was the usual routine of "hurry up and wait." They did MRIs and CTs, which were all thankfully negative. I spent the night in the ER, and was discharged the next morning with referrals to an ophthalmologist and a family physician. The ophthalmologist examined me and told me I have a "partial palsy of the 3rd cranial nerve, without pupil involvement." It should resolve on its own within 3 months.

That Friday, I met my new doctor and then spent a couple of hours while his nurse taught me everything I needed to know to start managing my diabetes. It's not clear that the diabetes was out of control and caused the damage to my eye. It may have been related to my high blood pressure or the interaction of the two conditions. However, it's a vascular injury, and diabetes affects vascular health. I'm now checking my blood glucose levels daily and keeping a food diary, looking for patterns that tell me what I should and shouldn't eat.

I'm wearing a black eye patch. I can see perfectly, 20/20, out of each eye separately, but they won't work together. I sometimes switch the patch to let the left eye get some exercise, but I can't walk like that. Those walls insist on jumping in front of me! And, with my left eye covered most of the time, my left side is covered with bruises from things I walked into that I couldn't see! It's only been 4 weeks, so I'm hopeful the 6 weeks to 3 months duration the ophthalmologist quoted turns out to be correct.

Meanwhile, I'm in the market for a stuffed parrot to wear on my shoulder.

Saturday, April 2, 2016

A Trip to Dutch Harbor

(Note: I am a month behind in posting this. March was a busy and difficult month, for reasons unrelated to this post. After I get this one done, I'll post something else that will explain the delay.)

I got a grant from the Aleutian Probilof Island Community Development Association for $12,000. The grant program was specifically intended to promote Alaska fishing and fisheries. I had no interest in that, but I wanted to get my students off the island and somewhere that they could see a museum. There are two museums in Dutch Harbor/Unalaska, as well as an indoor pool at the recreation department. So I wrote the grant for the students to learn swimming and water safety, but in our off-hours, we could go to the museums!

We left Atka on Monday, February 29. Two of the students weren't able to go with us, so our group was 8 altogether: 5 boys, 2 chaperones, and me. We had a great time. The kids were better swimmers than I (and the swim teacher) had expected, and they did very well with the curriculum.

Brenna A
People all over Dutch Harbor bent over backwards to make our stay pleasant and educational. Matt Kell, the Grant Aviation manager in Dutch Harbor, worked very hard to arrange a private visit at the Museum of the Aleutians for us. The museum is currently closed due to staffing problems. In the end, we weren't able to connect with the board member who had offered to give us a tour, but I really appreciate the effort that was made.

We were supposed to tour the Wizard, a fishing boat that is featured on Deadliest Catch. We drove all over the area, to every harbor, looking for the boat. Just imagine the surrealism of rolling down your window to tell a passerby that you're looking for the Wizard. Every time I heard myself say it, I had the urge to click my heels together 3 times.

We didn't find the Wizard, but someone had already made arrangements for us to visit a different Deadliest Catch boat, the Brenna A. I had just pulled a muscle in my leg, which wouldn't support my climbing up the ladder, so I waited with a couple of the crew (telling dirty jokes) while the students and chaperones toured the boat. I have a ton of pictures of the inside of the ship, but I won't post them since I'm not sure what I'm looking at.

As we were leaving the ship, someone pulled into the parking lot and got out with VIP badges for us. The kids were glad to get a tangible reminder of their visit. I was impressed that someone had cared enough to think about us.

We got to visit the WWII Museum, which is part of the National Park Service. I knew that the Aleutians had been affected by WWII. Islanders were sent to internment camps for their "protection." I didn't realize, though, that the Japanese army had attacked the Aleutians. The only WWII battle fought in North America was in the Aleutians. The Army/Navy had bases here. In some places, like Atka, they destroyed all the buildings on the island in order to prevent the Japanese from being able to use them. Many people, especially the Elders, died from the conditions in the camps. When the islanders returned home, they had to start from scratch, albeit with help from the armed forces. The tribes have really never recovered.

The boys turned serious as they went through the exhibits and learned about this part of their people's past. I got permission to take pictures of every exhibit, which is part of my plan for having the students create their own museum.  After all, how can you create exhibits for a Museum of Atka if you've never been to a museum?

Two days later, we returned to the museum for a fun treat: we watched "The Martian" in the museum's 35-seat theater. We were even allowed to have popcorn and water while we watched. The kids spent some of their free time at the rec center, which functions as the local teen hangout. They also hung out in their rooms, watching movies and eating junk food, things that aren't possible in Atka. I think they had fun.

It was a good trip and a great experience for the boys. We left one student behind; his family actually moved to Dutch Harbor during the week we were there. In fact, we left one chaperone behind; he stayed behind hoping to find work. (He succeeded, and now his wife is there, too.) I'm now mulling over ideas for next year's grant.

Tuesday, March 1, 2016

Out of Town Guests

The week of February 22 was busy in our little school. We had 2 visitors from out of town. We would have had a 3rd, but the weather didn't cooperate. I don't want to get ahead of myself, so I'll tell it in order.

Our first guest was Eddie Wood, an artist-in-residence. His visit was paid for by our district. He flew in on Monday and started his residency that afternoon with a combined class of both primary and secondary students. On Tuesday through Thursday, he had classes with the primary students and the secondary students separately in the morning, and then the combined classes in the afternoon. He finished on Friday with two abbreviated classes, and then he flew away.

Eddie is primarily a percussionist, but he dabbles a bit in dance and drama as well. On Wednesday morning, my boys showed him one of the men's drumming songs they know. Wednesday evening, the community was invited to a social dance class, featuring a two-step. 9 people attended, including two of my students. (I wasn't able to attend because on my way home after school I slipped on some ice. I didn't fall, but I pulled the same muscle I injured the last time I fell. I'm still nursing it back to health!) Then on Thursday, the students did a short performance for anyone who wanted to attend, followed by Wednesday night's dancers showing off a little.

I didn't attend most of Eddie's sessions, except to take pictures, so I didn't get to observe his process. I got to see his results, though. The kids were very polished and competent. Eddie got good music out of them, so overall, I was impressed. He had a wide variety of instrument, so he was able to match each student to both their ability level and their interest. He would like to return, but he would like to come for 2 weeks next time. I could support that!

Our other visitor was Kirsten Swann, a reporter from an Anchorage-based magazine. An upcoming issue is on education, and Kirsten's editor wanted her to focus on small schools, especially those schools that would close if the legislature changes the minimum size of a school from 10 to 25. Kirsten had seen a posting about Yakov T. Bear, and decided to reach out to Yakov's school.

Kirsten also arrived on Monday. As soon as she got settled, she came over and started learning about our school, especially my class. We had release forms signed ahead of time so that she could interview, video, and photograph the kids. Kirsten was young, attractive, and cheerful. After a couple of days, she fit in with the kids as if she'd always been there. I overheard a conversation between her and the kids about popular music; that's always a good sign that someone has been accepted. Kirsten was one of the participants in the social dance class, and got up to dance with my boys. I'm looking forward to seeing what she writes about us.

Our superintendent was supposed to have arrived on Monday as well, but there weren't any seats available for him. He wasn't able to fly in on Wednesday (and Kirsten wasn't able to leave) because of a storm along the route. Then on Thursday, the plane was needed to fly to Akutan. Since Thursday is an Akutan day and not an Atka day, the make-up flight to Atka was canceled. Joe postponed his trip until March, and Kirsten ended up leaving on Friday with Eddie.

As I write, I'm sitting in a hotel room in Unalaska. My class is here for our big field trip. The week isn't even half over, and already it's a success! But I'll tell you about the trip next time.

Saturday, February 13, 2016

Big Trouble in Little Atka

I had finally reached a point where I felt confident about the work I was doing. With the addition of Kartufala/Scamp, my family felt complete. I even ventured to say out loud that I was happy. I should have known it wouldn't last.

I'm surrounded by so much beauty.
Here's the waterfall I see and hear
when I open my front door.
My partner has always been a little high-strung and anxious. She's also been dealing with some very difficult children. And that's coming from someone who specialized in early childhood special ed! She has one student who gives up as soon as her work becomes challenging. She cries and screams. I teach her older sister, and see the results of years of learned helplessness, although without the tantrums.

She has another student who cries, screams, runs away, throws things, and tries to hit or kick when he doesn't get what he wants. Watching his face, though, it's obvious that he's totally in control of himself and is merely being manipulative to get out of a situation he doesn't like. Again, I have the older sibling, who pretty much acts the same way, but at a verbal rather than physical level. The parents are first cousins, so I'm betting that there's some faulty wiring. The only good news is that the kids in the family all seem to be quite gifted.

Here's the same waterfall, frozen for
the winter. Cold, but no less
beautiful.
A week ago, the little boy threw a huge tantrum. My partner called the mom to tell her to pick the kid up, since he was unsafe. The mom ended up blaming my partner for her son's inability to behave appropriately. My partner finished the call in tears, and immediately decided to quit the job. Since it was a Friday, there would be a plane within an hour, and she planned to get on it. I asked her to wait until Monday so that she wouldn't have to leave all in a rush.

Over the weekend, my partner decided to stay until a replacement could be found. Although I emailed the superintendent 2 or 3 times, I didn't hear from him until Sunday. I wasn't part of the discussion of what to do next, though I'm glad the solution didn't involve me at all.

On Thursday, I got a nasty email from the superintendent, scolding me because, according to a parent, I hadn't yet distributed information for an upcoming field trip. The parent information meeting was held on Wednesday evening. He was also scolding me because this parent said I wasn't using the District benchmarks, which inform everything I do in my classroom. When I called him on scolding me without first verifying the information, he said that if I had an issue, I needed to call him or else he couldn't know that there was a problem. Not really sure what he's referring to there; the parent had a problem, but I didn't. I pointed out that he knew that I was upset and concerned last weekend, but he did nothing to communicate with me. His response was that he didn't know I was upset. It takes a special kind of stupid not to recognize that when one half of a team quits, the other half is going to be affected!

I've learned what my limits are in dealing with bad bosses. I'm not able to ignore being treated harshly. (Look up INFP on the Myers-Briggs.) I'm much happier being ignored. And I require a certain amount of acknowledgement for the good things I do, like being interviewed for two magazines based on my class's accomplishments. Winning a $12k grant. Making connections to the community, including monthly Family Movie Nights. Things my boss doesn't seem to know about for all that he's mentioned them.

So, it looks like we are both leaving. Her departure is imminent, while mine is only theoretical. Perhaps the situation can be salvaged. I hope so. I've had such success this year, and so many plans for next year. I love this job, even though it consumes my whole life. I was even happy, for a little while.